Have you ever watched the 1989 classic movie ‘Steel Magnolias’? If not, I think you should watch it. If you have seen it, then watch it again!
We arrive in Natchitoches, (pronounced na-kah-tuhsh) Louisiana on a Saturday afternoon and whilst our first night’s accommodation is at a cheap highway hotel, we have plans for Sunday. Natchitoches is famous because it is the location used in the movie ‘Steel Magnolias’, and unlike many movies that are set in real places, what you see on the screen is actually what you see in ‘real life’. Steel Magnolias is the true story of Susan Harling Robinson who died in 1985 of complications from type 1 diabetes, and the movie’s storyline sticks to the original theme. Written by Susan’s brother, Robert Harling, the short story, which evolved into a play and later the movie, tells the heartbreaking story of his sister’s health struggle and the way in which the women, the lifelong friends of their mother, banded together to provide support after Susan died.
It is a beautiful blue sky day, and it is hot. By the time we finish driving past all the movie locations, we end up in Front Street, which is a lovely quaint red-brick strip shopping centre facing the Cane River. Parking along the side of the river, we go in search of a restaurant or café for brunch. Since we are in the historic old part of town, and because it is Sunday, most cafes and restaurants are closed. However, all is not lost as we find a busy restaurant in a side street. Mind you, I think the only reason we got a table here is because it is still a bit early for the lunch crowd. It is lovely to sit inside amongst the locals, who incidentally, are all beautifully dressed in their Sunday clothes, and who have presumably just attended Church and are sharing a meal with their extended families.
For an outsider, unused to a small-town close-knit community, there is an atmosphere of conviviality, of family. There is a sense that today, Sunday, will be spent entirely with family and I now understand why so few shops in this historic section of town are open today. Although I feel as though I'm having a ‘sliding door’ moment, where I am part of this scene, but as an observer, I now understand that this ‘Leave it to Beaver’ experience is not so unique in the United States of America. From the corner of my eye, I watch as an elder from one large multigenerational family group peels twenties from the outside of the largest wad of cash I have ever seen to pay the bill. Ushering his family out of the restaurant, he tips his hat at those he is familiar with. This is what I would consider Southern etiquette, and I have witnessed this in bucketloads since arriving in America in general and Louisiana in particular.
Just down the road is the Steel Magnolia House Bed and Breakfast, where we will spend the remainder of today. Checking in at midday, we are greeted by the staff who make us comfortable. The house is exactly what you see in the movie, so whatever renovations were made to the house then have been meticulously retained today.
Originally built around 1830 by two Italian architects, Trizini and Soldini, it allegedly had been used as a Confederate hospital during the Civil War (1861 - 1865). It was not always in this location, having been moved here in the early 1900s. In the 1940s, it was sold to Herman Taylor, who still owned it when the movie was made in 1989. The footpaths outside the home still have the Taylor name embedded. The columns at the front of the house are unique, pie-shaped bricks imported from France, which form the rounded columns.
As we are shown many of the rooms in the house, I am aware that there is acute attention to detail in the many architectural features. Original mantels, timber floors, the grand staircase, and crystal chandeliers, together with draperies, furnishings, fine crystal and china, make this outstanding B&B a perfect place for a short respite from long-distance driving. Although many old homes have ghosts, I am surprised to see a bundle of sage in the kitchen, so presumably they become active from time to time. The house is homey and comfortable and, well, just like being at home.
The staff, as they leave the house for the day, tell us to make ourselves at home. And we do. Whilst walking by the river in the late afternoon, I see a patch of small American flags skewered into a section of the green parkland by the side of the road. It is Memorial Weekend, the weekend that Americans commemorate their military and remember those who have given their lives for their country. I like the way these patches of flags, which I have noticed have sprung up in parks across the states we have visited, specifically remember the local people who have given their lives during wartime.
Later, as we watch the movie and recognise the locations we have visited around town and those surrounding us in this house, I feel as if I am a silent observer or a participant because of the familiarity of the surroundings. It has been a fun day, and I climb the stairs to sleep in Ouiser’s Room, the one at the front on the right side of the house if you are standing outside looking in.
Breakfast is served at the same time for everyone staying at Steel Magnolias House, so whilst I reluctantly pack my overnight bag in preparation for today’s travels, I have a chance to reflect on my visit to Natchitoches, Louisiana. This part of town, the historic centre located along the Cane River is beautiful. Large homes are dotted along the road, some hidden behind large magnolia and oak trees that are synonymous with Louisiana. Where so many towns are declining, Natchitoches seems to have retained its poise, and whilst there are some post-covid vacancies in the main street, I hope that a few good tourist years will help to shake off the lethargy we have seen in other cities.
I meet Dan Dyess, the owner of the B&B, who sits with us over breakfast and regales us with stories of the south and the reason why he bought the house and turned it into a place where international and local visitors can enjoy the ambience and memories of the Steel Magnolias movie, and to explore the town and its local sites. Mr Dyess, a local lawyer, has plans to purchase other important sites in Louisiana and to retain their historic significance and to share them with travellers. His presence today to talk to us, to answer questions we have about the house and his life in Louisiana, is a bonus that I did not expect. As I start the car and pull out of the driveway, I come away from this magnificent house with the feeling that it is a unique travelling experience, and one that will stay with me for a long time.
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